Khusargang

I had two options for my first 6000er, minglik sar or khosargang. I chose khosargang because the approach is a lot shorter. Takes about 3-5 days just to get to Minglik, Khosargang can be done in 7-10 days. The difficulty goes really high because of this. The hike to basecamp is a whopping 1600m gain over 5-6 kms. It's brutal but there's plenty of water thanks to the spring at the trail head. Feels about the same all the way to camp1 and then the scrambling starts. Camp1 to High camp has a lot of exposed scrambly sections, not easy! And then the summit push requires some technical knowledge. It's a long 10-14 hours of climbing on a fixed rope. There isn't any super dangerous crevasse risk but conditions do render themselves favourable to avalanches. Knowing how to use jumar, moving in crampons and managing the cold is absolutely crucial.. the rest is just your endurance. The summit is at 6040m and the village that you start from (Sildi) is about 2500m. It's a glorious mountain with some of the most beautiful sunrises i've ever seen! There's the gorgeous B21 on the other side of shigar that follows you the entire climb.