Kumrat is one of those places where the journey is part of the destination. The valley sits in Upper Dir, surrounded by dense deodar forests, the Panjkora River and a chain of increasingly remote landscapes that eventually lead toward Jahaz Banda and Katora Lake.
The mistake many first-time visitors make is treating Kumrat, Jahaz Banda and Katora Lake as one sightseeing trip. They are not. Kumrat itself is relatively accessible once you reach Thal, while Jahaz Banda and Katora Lake turn the trip into a proper mountain trek.
πΊοΈ The Kumrat route at a glance
Islamabad / Peshawar β Dir β Thal β Kumrat
From Thal, the journey splits into two main directions:
Route 1 β Kumrat Valley
Thal β Gamser β Kumrat Forest β Panjkora River β Kumrat Waterfall β Kala Chashma β Do Janga β Shahzor Lake
This is the valley route. It is primarily about forests, rivers, waterfalls and increasingly remote landscapes.
Route 2 β Jahaz Banda & Katora Lake
Thal β Gamser β Takki Top β Jahaz Banda β Kund Banda β Katora Lake
This is the trekking route. You leave the jeep at Takki Top and hike into the high meadows of Jahaz Banda. From Jahaz Banda, you can either descend toward Kund Banda or continue toward Katora Lake.
Day 1 β Reach Thal and enter Kumrat
Islamabad β Dir β Thal
If you're driving from Islamabad, expect a long mountain journey. Dir is accessible by a normal car but the road from Dir toward Thal is not something we'd recommend taking in a low-clearance car. It is possible, but conditions can make the drive uncomfortable and slow.
From Dir, allow roughly 3.5 hours to reach Thal, depending on road conditions.
Thal is your gateway to Kumrat. Once you reach Thal, this is where the journey changes.
π From Thal onward: take a 4Γ4
| Jeep type | Route | Approx. round trip |
|---|---|---|
| 5-seater | Thal β Kumrat | PKR 8,000β10,000 |
| 5-seater | Thal β Takki Top | PKR 10,000β12,000 |
| 5-seater | Thal β Badgoi Top | PKR 12,000β14,000 |
Day 2 β Explore Kumrat Valley
Thal β Kumrat
From Thal, the jeep follows the valley toward Kumrat, gradually leaving the populated areas behind. The road eventually brings you into the landscape that makes Kumrat famous: dense forest, huge deodar trees and the Panjkora River running through the valley.
The official National Tourism Portal puts ThalβKumrat at roughly 7.6 km, although actual local route measurements can vary depending on the point in Kumrat being used as the destination.
π² Kumrat Forest
The forest is arguably the main attraction of Kumrat. Large deodar trees line the valley while the Panjkora flows through it, creating the characteristic combination of forest + river + mountains that makes Kumrat different from many of Pakistan's more open alpine destinations.
π§ Panjkora River
The Panjkora River is essentially the spine of Kumrat. Much of the valley experience happens around it: riverside camps, huts, glamping properties, picnic spots and forest walks.
If you're staying in Kumrat, staying somewhere along the river is one of the best ways to experience the valley rather than simply visiting its attractions.
π¦ Kumrat Waterfall
The waterfall is one of the valley's most recognizable stops. It's an easy addition to a Kumrat day and is suitable for families, making it one of the attractions you can comfortably include even if you're travelling with children or older family members.
π€ Kala Chashma
Continue deeper into the valley toward Kala Chashma, another natural attraction along the Kumrat route. Personally, we would suggest to dont go with high expectations since the locals overhype the place.
Do Janga β where the road ends
For the adventurous traveler, Do Janga is where the Kumrat road becomes a different kind of journey. This is effectively the end of vehicle access on this side of the valley. Beyond Do Janga, you leave the jeep behind and continue on foot toward Shahzor Lake.
π₯Ύ Do Janga β Shahzor Lake
Shahzor Lake should be treated as a genuine trekking destination, not an optional roadside viewpoint.If you're planning to go beyond Do Janga, plan for:
- A local guide or a porter, depending on how much equipment you're carrying
- Sufficient food and water
- Appropriate trekking equipment
- Considerably more time than a normal Kumrat sightseeing trip
Unlike the main Kumrat attractions, Shahzor Lake is not a family-friendly excursion.
Day 3 β Thal β Takki Top β Jahaz Banda
This is where the trip changes from sightseeing to trekking.
Thal β Gamser β Takki Top
Take your local jeep from Thal toward Takki Top. The road gets progressively rougher as you climb. Once you reach Takki Top, the jeep journey ends and the hike begins. Takki Top is your vehicle drop-off point for Jahaz Banda. From here onward, you're walking.
π₯Ύ Takki Top β Jahaz Banda
The hike to Jahaz Banda is the gateway to the high-altitude side of Kumrat. The trek typically takes around 2-4 hours, depending on your pace, conditions and where exactly you start.
Do you need a guide?
Till jahaz banda, the trail is good and navigable so we would not suggest taking a guide.
Once you arrive at Jahaz Banda, the landscape changes completely.
ποΈ Jahaz Banda
Jahaz Banda is a huge high-altitude meadow surrounded by mountains. This is where you can slow down, camp, stay in a basic local setup and enjoy the mountain landscape without the noise and movement of the lower valley.
It is also your base for the two major excursions:
Option A β Kund Banda
Option B β Katora Lake
π Kund Banda
From Jahaz Banda, you can hike downhill toward Kund Banda.
Kund Banda is a beautiful meadow area below Jahaz Banda.
The area is known for its water stream, waterfall and particularly beautiful sunset views.
This makes Kund Banda a much more relaxed option than Katora Lake for people who want to explore the high meadows without committing to the full Katora trek.
And because you're descending from Jahaz Banda, remember: What is easy on the way down has to be climbed back up.
Plan your return accordingly.
π§ Katora Lake
If Kund Banda is the relaxed option, Katora Lake is the serious one.
From Jahaz Banda, the trail continues deeper into the mountains toward the famous alpine lake.
Katora Lake sits at roughly 3,700 metres and requires a steep, rocky trek. Current trekking guides estimate roughly 3β5 hours each way from Jahaz Banda, depending on route and conditions.
Guide: strongly recommended
We strongly recommend taking a local guide for the Jahaz Banda β Katora Lake trek, particularly if you are going in the off-season or if it isn't crowded.
Can you do Katora Lake in one day?
Yes β but only if you're an experienced hiker.
An experienced, fit hiker can:
Takki Top β Jahaz Banda β Katora Lake β Jahaz Banda β Takki Top
in a single day, but this is not the itinerary we'd recommend for the average traveler. For most people, staying overnight around Jahaz Banda makes the experience considerably more manageable.
π¨βπ©βπ§ Is Kumrat family-friendly?
Yes β most of Kumrat is.
Not recommended for ordinary family trips
Shahzor Lake and Katora Lake should be considered trekking destinations rather than family sightseeing attractions.
ποΈ Where to stay
Kumrat has developed considerably, so you don't have to choose between rough camping and a basic room anymore.
Premium stays & glamping
There are now premium riverside glamps, wooden cottages, huts and resort-style accommodation around Kumrat Forest.
For example, current properties include riverside dome-style accommodation and luxury jungle/forest stays.
Some premium properties offer:
- Private bathrooms
- Riverside locations
- Wooden cottages
- Glamping tents
Prices can be significantly higher than ordinary Kumrat accommodation, especially during weekends and peak season.
Huts & camps
For a more traditional Kumrat experience, there are also:
- Wooden huts
- Riverside camps
- Basic guesthouses
- Tent camps
Free camping
If you're properly equipped, free camping in the forest/riverside areas is also possible in suitable spots. However, don't treat the entire forest as an unrestricted campsite. Choose established/appropriate areas, check with locals regarding current restrictions and conditions, and leave no trace.
If you're camping independently, carry everything you need β including waste bags β because facilities become increasingly limited as you move deeper into the valley.
πΆ Mobile Network
Don't come to Kumrat expecting reliable connectivity.
Network availability becomes increasingly inconsistent as you move away from Thal and deeper into the valley and mountains. Terrain, dense forest and distance from towers can all affect the actual signal you receive; even operator coverage maps are only predictive and don't guarantee service at a particular location.
Our recommendation:
- Download maps before leaving Thal.
- Don't depend on mobile data for navigation.
- Tell family/friends where you're going before entering the valley.
- Carry an offline map.
- Don't assume you'll have a signal at Jahaz Banda, Katora or Shahzor.
Oh and yes, youβll have a jazz signal tower right above when you reach katora lake.
π€οΈ Best time to visit
Late May β Early October
This is the window we'd recommend for a complete Kumrat trip.
π Badgoi Top β the alternative adventure
If you're looking for a mountain road experience rather than another crowded tourist viewpoint, Badgoi Top is worth considering. It's considerably less touristy than Babusar Top, while offering a beautiful high-altitude mountain landscape.
A local jeep from Thal to Badgoi Top costs roughly:
PKR 12,000β14,000 round trip for a 5-seater
The route is weather-dependent, so confirm current road conditions with a local driver before setting out.
Before you go
Kumrat rewards people who don't rush it.
The lower valley is accessible enough for families and relaxed travelers, while the upper routes offer a completely different experience for hikers. You can spend a night beside the Panjkora River in a comfortable glamp, then a day later be walking through high-altitude meadows toward Katora Lake.
The key is understanding that Kumrat is not one destination. It is a progression.
Plan around that progression, hire the right vehicle for each section, don't underestimate the upper treks, and give yourself enough time to actually experience the valley rather than simply ticking attractions off a list.
That's the Kumrat trip worth taking.






